A day in Fes
We spent the day exploring Fes. The Medina here is vast, and even more of a labyrinth than the one in Tangier. Our guide actually hired 2 more people to help, so they could keep track of us. Not everyone in our group did this tour, so there were 3 of them keeping track of about 18 of us. After I saw the Medina, I understood his concerns. The alleys were even smaller than those in Tangier, and they move goods through these "streets" via hand cart or donkey. No tuk-tuks here—there just isn't enough room.
There are actually two medinas in Fes: the new, which was build in the 14th century, and the old, from the 8th century. We spent time in both, climbing up and down the pathways. We stopped at several historic sites, such as an old madrasa (school), a mausoleum, a museum for wood, and more. There were shops everywhere and, as in Tangier, many people live in the Medina.
During the wandering, we visited a large rug seller. This reminded me of the one that was part of the tour Mom and I did in Turkey. They served tea and explained the types of rugs, then try to sell you one or more. I wasn't buying, but even the smallest were very expensive. A 2x3 foot rug (with lovely colors!) was $350. Of course, that was before bargaining, so probably actually about $150 would have gotten it. I laughed and told the salesman that my dogs would eat it. Without missing a beat, he said, "Dogs only eat Turkish carpets."
We visited a leather tannery before leaving the Medina. It is probably one of the most photographed sites in Fes. Like the carpet sellers, we were subjected to explanations of the types of leather and how they process it, then they tried to sell us leather goods. There were some lovely items, and some of the leather was incredibly soft, but I wasn't really interested (other than photographing the place). A friend tried on a leather jacket, and took it off quickly when he was told it was $1750 (pre-bargaining).
I also took a video of the tanners at work in the dye vats.
I think the only unenjoyable part of the day was the street sellers that followed us around. We had been warned that it would happen, and told to just ignore them, but they were very persistent. Many were children too. Even ignoring them was only partly successful. I was glad to get back on the bus in the end and get away from them.
We got back to the hotel around 4:30. I took a rest, then had a hammam and a massage. The hammam is the Moroccan version of a Turkish bath. You sit on a heated marble slab and get doused with hot water. Then you get scrubbed with a mitt that exfoliates—and takes off probably multiple levels of skin. I did have to ask for less pressure, and I still felt sandblasted. You get soaped with the black soap, rinsed with buckets of hot water again, then shampooed. Even your scalp gets scrubbed, but that felt wonderful. In case you're wondering, you wear only underwear for this (panties only). I don't know what she used on my hair—there were 3 different things—but it is clean and so soft! Then I had the massage, so I'm scoured, oiled, and relaxed. It was particularly nice after all the walking we did today. I finished up my indulgent evening by having a light dinner (pastilla again, this time with ground meat and nuts spiced with cinnamon). I've packed, as we have an early start tomorrow and a long day on the bus getting to the desert.
I don't think I said much about the riad that we're staying in, but it's been lovely, if a bit cold. It's just huge, and the details of the building are lovely. Cold marble floors and all, I still prefer this to a chain hotel like Hilton.
And, for no particular reason, a donkey.
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